How To Choose A Torque Converter For Your Vehicle

JEGS Tech Specialist

Pete Mitchell

What Does A Torque Converter Do?

A torque converter is a key component in automatic transmissions, serving as a vital link between the engine and the transmission. Its primary function is to transfer power from the engine to the transmission while allowing the engine to continue running even when the vehicle is stationary. This is achieved through a fluid coupling mechanism. Inside the torque converter, there are two main elements: the impeller, which is connected to the engine, and the turbine, which is linked to the transmission input shaft. These elements are immersed in transmission fluid. As the engine rotates the impeller, it generates fluid movement, which in turn causes the turbine to spin, transmitting power to the transmission. Importantly, the design of a torque converter allows for a certain amount of slippage between the impeller and turbine, enabling smooth acceleration and preventing stalling. Additionally, torque converters provide a torque multiplication effect, amplifying the engine torque during initial acceleration, which is particularly beneficial for heavy loads or steep inclines.

How Does A Torque Converter Work?

When the vehicle is in “park” while the engine is running, the converter is spinning but the transmission is locked internally, preventing the transfer of power and movement to the rest of the drivetrain. When shifted into “drive”, the transmission unlocks and allows forward movement of the vehicle under power. However, the converter slips enough for the engine to continue to rotate while the brakes are applied. If the converter did not slip and the brakes were applied, the engine would die, as it could not spin the crankshaft, which would be directly connected from the flexplate to the "locked" (from depressed brake pedal) tires. Once the brake pedal is released, the vehicle begins to move with the converter still slipping some. Once the engine rpms increase, the centrifugal force inside the torque converter causes it to engage the transmission input shaft more and slippage lessens. Once the converter stall speed is reached, the converter is fully engaged (yet still with some slippage) in completely coupling the engine to the transmission. Lock-up converters, typically found in street vehicles with overdrive transmissions, will 100% lock up with no slippage between the engine and transmission. This usually happens once the vehicle is in the highest gear and at a steady speed at highway speeds, with the vehicle ECU applying electrical power to the lock-up solenoid. The additional reduction in converter slippage lowers the engine rpms and helps the transmission to stay cooler as friction and slippage cause heat, lowering transmission life. This also improves engine fuel economy and longevity.

The Torque Converter Consists Of Four Primary Components:

Cover --- the cover (also referred to as a front) is the outside half of the housing toward the engine side from the weld line. The cover serves to attach the converter to the flexplate (not flywheel, which is for manual transmissions/clutches) via flexplate bolts and contains the transmission fluid. While the torque converter cover is not actively involved in the characteristics of the performance, it is important that the cover remain rigid under stress (torsional and thrust stress and the tremendous hydraulic pressure generated by the torque converter internally.)

Turbine --- the converter turbine rides within the cover and is attached to the drivetrain via a spline fit to the input shaft of the transmission. When the turbine moves, the car moves.

Stator --- the stator can be described as the "brain" of the torque converter, although the stator is by no means the sole determiner of converter function and characteristics. The stator, which changes fluid flow between the turbine and pump, is what makes a torque converter a torque converter (multiplier) and not strictly a fluid coupler.

With the stator removed, however, it will retain none of its torque multiplying effect. In order for the stator to function properly the sprag must work as designed: (1) It must hold the stator perfectly still (locked in place) while the converter is still in stall mode (slow relative turbine speed to the impeller pump speed) and (2) allow the stator to spin with the rest of the converter after the turbine speed approaches the pump speed. This allows for more efficient and less restrictive fluid flow.

Sprag --- The sprag is a one-way mechanical clutch mounted on races and fits inside the stator while the inner race splines onto the stator support of the transmission. The torque multiplier effect means that a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission and torque converter will output more torque to the drive wheels than the engine is actually producing. This occurs while the converter is in its "stall mode" (when the turbine is spinning considerably slower than the pump) and during vehicle acceleration. Torque multiplication rapidly decreases until it reaches a ratio of 1:1 (no torque increase over crankshaft torque.) A typical torque converter will have a torque multiplication ratio in the area of 2.5:1. The main point to remember is that all properly functioning torque converters do indeed multiply torque during initial acceleration. The more drastic the change in fluid path caused by the stator from its "natural" return path, the higher the torque multiplication ratio a given converter will have. Torque multiplication does not occur with a manual transmission clutch and pressure plate; hence the need for heavy flywheels, very high numerical gear ratios, and high launch rpm. A more detailed discussion of torque multiplication can get very confusing to the layman as high multiplication ratios can be easily considered the best choice when in fact more variables must be included in the decision. Remember, the ratio is still a factor of the engine torque in the relevant range of the torque converter stall speed, i.e.: a converter with a multiplication ratio of 2.5:1 that stalls 3000 rpm will produce 500 ft.-lbs. of torque at the instance of full throttle acceleration if its coupled to an engine producing 200 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3000 rpm. However, if this same engine produces 300 ft.-lbs. of torque at 4000 rpm, we would be better off with a converter that stalled 4000 rpm with only a 2.0:1 torque multiplication ratio, i.e.: 300 x 2.0 = 600 ft.-lbs. at initial acceleration. Of course it would be better yet to have a 2.5:1 ratio with the 4000 rpm in this example (provided his combination still allows the suspension to work and the tires don't spin.) This is just a brief overview as the actual scenarios are endless.

Impeller pump --- the impeller pump is the outside half of the converter on the transmission side of the weld line. Inside the impeller pump is a series of longitudinal fins, which, drive the fluid around its outside diameter into the turbine, since this component is welded to the cover, which is bolted to the flywheel. The size of the torque converter (and pump) and the number and shape of the fins all affect the characteristics of the converter. If long torque converter life is an objective, it is extremely important that the fins of the impeller pump are adequately reinforced against fatigue and the outside housing does not distort under stress.

Where Is The Torque Converter Located?

The torque converter is located inside the transmission bellhousing between the engine and transmission. It is bolted to the flexplate, which is fastened to the engine crankshaft on one end. On the other side, it slides onto the splined transmission input shaft. It is protected with a dust cover (sometimes missing) typically mounted at the bottom between the engine and transmission to prevent debris from being caught in the spinning operation.

How Much Is A Torque Converter?

Torque converters can range anywhere from under $200 for a stock replacement, to thousands of dollars for an all-out race converter, which is capable of handling nitrous, supercharged, and turbocharged 1000+ horsepower engines.

What Torque Converter Do I Need?

Selecting the proper torque converter for your automatic transmission application is one of the most important decisions to make for your vehicle’s drivetrain. When selecting a torque converter there are several factors involved.

The first is the transmission type, as the torque converter needs to match the transmission. This includes the input shaft spline count, whether the transmission is a “lock-up” style or “non-lock-up” style, as well as matching the transmission configuration (for example, some Ford transmissions have “case-fill” and “pan-fill” designs requiring a different converter physical size for clearance).

The torque converter also needs to match the flexplate diameter and bolt pattern.

The next step is matching the converter to the engine’s horsepower. All aftermarket converters have a maximum horsepower rating that it has been tested to be able to handle.

Next is the anti-ballooning plate option. An anti-ballooning plate is used for applications with nitrous, turbocharged, or supercharged engines as well as transmissions equipped with a transbrake. This plate provides additional strength to the converter from the sudden increase in power created from power adders and hard launches, reducing the chances of an explosion and complete converter failure.

Finally, the correct stall speed needs selected to properly match the engine's camshaft as well as vehicle weight, tire diameter and final drive gear ratio. Too low of a stall speed and the engine will stall or have a boggy take-off. Too high of stall and loss of power will result under the stall speed as well as unnecessary heat created in the transmission. JEGS offers a wide selection of torque converters to choose from to meet your vehicle needs.

dual bolt pattern torque converter GM Chevy — The back of a dual bolt pattern torque converter fitting both GM flexplate size options

What Stall Converter Do I Need?

The general rule is to select a converter stall speed that is 400-500 rpms above the beginning of the engine camshaft’s power band. For example, if the camshaft you purchased for your engine has a power band of 2000-6000 rpms, the converter should have around 2400-2500 rpm of stall. To get an even more accurate stall speed additional engine and vehicle information is needed. For example, a big block engine tends to stall higher than a small block engine. A heavier car also will cause the converter to stall higher than a lightweight vehicle. The rear tire diameter and gear ratio also affect stall speed. A numerically higher gear ratio will cause the converter to stall less, as the vehicle takes off easier than with a numerically lower gear ratio. The same applies with a taller (causing higher stall speeds) vs smaller tires (resulting in lower stall speeds). Most converters have a stall speed range that is advertised with anywhere from 200 - 400 of rpms (for example, "2200-2400 stall"). Taking into account weight, gear ratio, and tire size will help you to determine where in that range the actual stall speed will be for your specific vehicle. If using the converter on a street vehicle that will see highway use, you need to confirm that the stall speed is below your cruising rpm. If the vehicle is cruising at 65 mph in the highest transmission gear and the engine rpms are under the stall speed, the converter is still slipping. This generates a lot of heat and wear on the converter as well as the transmission. It will also cause a slipping behavior until the engine rpm matches the stall speed. If the correct stall speed has already been confirmed, changing the rear tire diameter (using a smaller tire) or gear ratio (using a numerically higher ratio) will help to raise the rpms above the stall speed and avoid transmission component damage.

Per TCI Transmissions, "Stall speed refers to the rpm that a given torque converter (impeller) has to spin in order for it to overcome a given amount of load and begin moving the turbine. This means how fast (rpm) the torque converter must spin to generate enough fluid force on the turbine to overcome the resting inertia of the vehicle at wide open throttle. Load originates from two places. The first is from the torque imparted on the torque converter by the engine via the crankshaft. (This load varies over rpm, i.e. torque curve, and is directly affected by atmosphere, fuel and engine conditions.) The second is from inertia, the resistance of the vehicle to acceleration, which places a load on the torque converter through the drive train. This can be thought of as how difficult the drivetrain is to rotate with the vehicle at rest, and is affected by car weight, amount of gear reduction and tire size, ability of tire to stay adhered to ground, and stiffness of chassis.

While referring to the resistance of the vehicle to move while at rest, the torque converter's stall speed and much of its characteristics for a given application are also affected by the vehicle's resistance to accelerate relative to its rate of acceleration. This resistance has much to do with the rpm observed immediately after the vehicle starts moving, the amount of rpm drop observed during a gear change, and the amount of slippage in the torque converter (turbine rpm relative to impeller pump rpm.) A discussion involving how resistance to acceleration affects a torque converter involves more theory than fact and must involve all the dozens of other variables that affect rpm and slippage. The primary thing to remember about torque converter stall speed is that a particular torque converter does not have a "preset from the factory" stall speed but rather its unique design will produce a certain range of stall speeds depending on the amount of load the torque converter is exposed to. This load comes from both the torque produced by the engine and the resistance of the vehicle to move from rest. The higher this combined load the higher stall we will observe from a particular torque converter, and conversely, the lower the load, the lower the stall speed. Naturally, if the engine is not at wide open throttle we will not expect to observe as high a stall speed as we would under a wide open throttle.

Another point concerning engine torque is that we are only focusing on what we'll call the "relevant range" of the engine torque curve when discussing initial stall speed. This means if a particular torque converter chosen has a design that should produce a stall speed in a range of say 2000 to 2600 rpm given the application then we would refer to this as the relevant range of interest in the engine's torque curve for this particular torque converter. In other words, only the torque characteristics of the engine in this rpm range will affect the amount of stall speed we actually observe. If we are using a high horsepower / rpm engine that does not make much torque before 3000 rpm, it does not matter that the engine makes excellent torque over 3000 rpm if we are trying to use the torque converter in this example because its relevant range is 2000-2600 rpm and we would expect to see poor stall (2000 rpm or less) due to the poor torque produced by the engine in this range.

Too Low Of Stall Speed

If an application requires at least 3000 rpm stall and a 2000 to 2500 rpm stall range converter is used, it will normally not even provide the 2000 rpm stall. It will act very similar to the stock torque converter that was just removed. Why? Because the engine needs to operate in its optimum rpm range and since the chosen torque converter is below that range, it is not getting enough load from the crankshaft side to operate as designed. Symptoms include engine stalling when in gear at a stop, low stall speed, hesitation when going to full throttle, a "bog" when leaving from stop at wide open throttle.

Too High Of Stall Speed

This happens most often when there is not sufficient gear ratio for the converter stall range or the engine is not capable of the appropriate rpm range (too small a duration camshaft, inadequate valve springs, too low compression, etc.) Symptoms include high "revs" to pull away from stop, "marshmallow" accelerator feel when driving at part throttle, transmission and possibly engine overheating, and a pronounced engine rev when nailing the throttle from a cruising speed."

What Is The Difference In The Terms "Flash Stall" And "Foot-Brake Stall"?

Of the two measurements of torque converter stall, 'Flash Stall' is the most accurate. Foot-Brake stall is dependent upon too many variables. (i.e. type of braking system, disc or drum brakes, how well adjusted the brake system is, ring and pinion ratios affect foot-brake stall more dramatically, idle characteristics of the engine, cam installation for low-end torque as needed by an automatic transmission.)

Flash Stall can be determined a couple of different ways:

-With the vehicle sitting still and idling in low gear, apply full throttle. As the vehicle begins its motion forward, notice the RPM hand on the tachometer. That is your Flash Stall. (Engine should be very responsive from idle. If not, camshaft timing and/or carburetor adjustments may need to be made in order for the engine to be crisp from idle.)

-With the vehicle in forward motion in high or drive gear and at its lowest mph where it will not kick back to a lower gear, apply full throttle while noticing the rpm hand of the tachometer. (This measurement of a flash stall is best achieved with a full manual(shift) race auto transmission.)

How To Tell If A Torque Converter Is Bad

The torque converter manufacturer should always be consulted first for the proper steps and recommendations on testing a torque converter in the vehicle. However, a simple test can be performed to determine if it is working properly. The testing method is not compatible with vehicles equipped with traction control, anti-lock brake systems, or computer-controlled transmissions. Great care must be taken so that damage does not result to any vehicle components. First, all engine, transmission, and vehicle fluids must be in good condition and at the proper level. The vehicle needs to have the parking brake set and with the tires chocked to prevent any possibility of vehicle movement. A tachometer is required and must be clearly seen from the driver seat. Next, press the brake pedal all the way down and start the engine in park. Then shift the transmission into drive while still holding the brakes at the same pressure to prevent vehicle movement. With one foot on the brake pedal and the other to be used on the accelerator pedal, and while watching the tachometer rpms, press the accelerator all the way down between 2-3 seconds, but not exceeding 4 seconds as damage may result to the transmission. The stall speed of the converter is the maximum rpm the engine revved up to during that 2-3 second interval. If the stall speed does not match the manufacturer’s specified stall range, the converter and/or transmission need further inspection to confirm what component(s) are not working properly or which parts are damaged.

What Does The Term "Lock-Up" Torque Converter Mean?

This term refers to a converter that contains an internal lock-up piston or device, either friction or mechanical. Transmissions such as TH350C, 2004R, 4L60 (700R4), 4L60E, 4L80E, AOD, AODE/4R70W, and others, use these methods of eliminating slippage for an increase in fuel economy. Older transmissions such as the TH400, TH350, C6, C4, and others did not incorporate these methods of lock-up. The only way to increase fuel efficiency in these types of converters is to change clearances, redirect fin angles, and usually lower the actual stall speed. Locking up the torque converter results in lowering engine rpms as well as transmission fluid temperature.

How To Replace A Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid

Depending on the transmission type, the steps required to replace a torque converter clutch solenoid on lock-up transmissions will be different. Most solenoids are located near the valve body and the front of the transmission. In many applications, replacement can be performed by removing the transmission fluid pan. Locating the transmission shop manual for your application will provide the correct instructions on proper replacement.

Should I Replace The Front Seal And Bushing In My Transmission Before Installing A New Torque Converter I Just Purchased?

Yes. You should inspect the old torque converter you are removing for damage to the converter hub that rides in the pump of the transmission. If you find any wear on the hub at all, you should replace both seal and bushing. If you find no wear at all, you may be fine with just a seal replacement. You should at least do one (seal) if not both (seal & bushing).

What Type Of Clearance Should I Have Between The Torque Converter And Flexplate Before Moving The Converter Forward And Bolting It To The Flexplate?

You should have 1/8" (.125") to 3/16" (.1875") between the torque converter and flexplate before pulling the converter forward front the transmission and bolting it to flexplate.

Can't Find The Torque Converter You Are Looking For?

A JEGS expert is ready to answer your questions and help you find the torque converter that you require for your specific application.

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bd diesel performance torque converter — Example internal components on a BD Diesel torque converter.

62 responses to “How To Choose A Torque Converter”

Nick

April 30, 2025

hello, I have a mostly stock 8.1 in a c10 with a comp cam 249-46-422-9 Xtreme Energy XR270HR Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Lift .510/.510 Duration 270/276 Lobe Separation Angle: 114° RPM Range 1200-5200. It also has 373 gears in the rear end running a 700r4 trans. looking for help with a stall on a torque converter.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  May 2, 2025
  
  Hi Nick,
  Thanks for the detailed info. With your 8.1L big block in a C10, matched with a Comp XR270HR camshaft, 3.73 gears, and a 700R4, you’ve got a solid street-performance combination. That cam’s powerband (roughly 1,200 to 5,200 RPM) means it starts making useful torque just off idle, but it still benefits from a converter that allows the engine to rev up a bit before engaging fully.
  Given your setup, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 2,200 to 2,400 RPM range would be ideal. This stall range will complement the cam’s low-end while also helping with part-throttle drivability and throttle response. It will also keep the engine in a more usable part of its powerband under light-to-moderate acceleration, without being too loose for street use.
  Since you’re using a 700R4, it’s important to choose a converter that retains lock-up capability unless you’re using a standalone controller or have converted it for non-lockup use. A converter in this stall range will still cruise comfortably on the highway when lock-up engages, especially with your 3.73 gears.
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. We’ll help you choose a converter that fits your transmission, cam profile, and driving style.
  
  Reply
Austin Johnson

April 24, 2025

94 camaro z28 tick performance stage 2 cam kit th350 and 4:11 gears and has a transbreak what do you recommend i want to drive it on the highway

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  April 29, 2025
  
  Hi Austin,
  With your 1994 Camaro Z28 running a TH350, 4.11 rear gears, a Tick Performance Stage 2 cam, and a transbrake, you’ve got a solid street-strip setup. The Tick Stage 2 cam is aggressive enough that your engine’s powerband likely starts around 3,000 RPM and pulls hard through the mid-to-upper range, which makes stall speed an important factor in getting the car off the line properly, especially with a transbrake involved.
  For your combo, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 3,600 to 4,000 RPM range would be a good fit. This allows the engine to get into its powerband quickly when launching from a stop, especially when using the transbrake at the track. Since you’re running a TH350 (no overdrive) and 4.11 gears, highway cruising RPM will be fairly high, but that’s the trade-off with a drag-oriented setup.
  If highway drivability is a major concern, you might want to look into switching to a transmission with overdrive down the road, such as a 200-4R or 4L60E with a lock-up converter, which will give you more flexibility between street comfort and track performance.
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. We’ll help you find the right converter for your build and driving goals.
  
  Reply
Brent Mcgowan

April 11, 2025

Hi what stall do u recommend? I have a 1972 chevy 2500 2wd 3.42 gear with 29 inch tire and th350 trans. I’m installing a 383 smedding hot rod engine 420 hp. Will be running holley 650 double pumper. Truck will be used for mostly cruising with an occasional show off moment or two. Thanks

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  April 11, 2025
  
  Hi Brent,
  
  Thanks for the details on your setup. With your 1972 Chevy 2500 2WD, 3.42 gears, TH350 transmission, and 29-inch tires, the combination is well-suited for a solid balance of drivability and performance. The Smeding 383 Hot Rod engine making 420 horsepower and paired with a Holley 650 double pumper is a strong street-friendly setup with good low- and mid-range torque.
  For your intended use of mostly cruising with the occasional full-throttle blast, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 2,400 to 2,800 RPM range would be a good match. This stall range will let the engine get into its torque curve quickly without being too loose for normal driving. It will also give you a noticeable improvement in throttle response without sacrificing street manners.
  If you need additional help selecting a torque converter, please contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a JEGS tech support specialist.
  
  Reply
William Barden Moody

April 10, 2025

I have a pontiac 461 stroker. Heads flow 290CFM Comp Cams Xtreme Energy XR288HR Hydraulic Roller Cam . Turbo 400 transmission and 373 rear gear. Which Converter do you recomend.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  April 11, 2025
  
  Hi William,
  
  You’ve got a strong combination with your 461 Pontiac stroker, 290 CFM heads, the Comp Cams XR288HR hydraulic roller cam, a Turbo 400 transmission, and 3.73 gears. The XR288HR cam has around 236 and 242 degrees duration at .050 with .520 and .540 lift, and it really starts to come alive around 2,500 RPM and pulls hard to about 6,200. To get the most out of that setup on the street or at the strip, a torque converter in the 3,000 to 3,400 RPM stall range would be ideal.
  This stall range will allow your engine to rev up into the powerband quickly, giving you strong off-the-line acceleration and better throttle response without being too loose for street driving. Since you are running a TH400 and 3.73 gears, you have the drivetrain to handle a higher stall converter and still maintain decent street manners. Make sure you also run a good transmission cooler, especially with the added heat a higher stall converter can generate.
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist.
  
  Reply
Chip Carlson

April 4, 2025

I am building a 70 cutlass .with a 05 ls1 5.3 Silverado engine .the transmission is a 4l60e out of a Chevrolet van 2008 . The car has a pose rear end stock gears .tires are 255 45 18. It’s a cruiser wit a little hot roding .trying to get a toque converter for it any help would be greatly appreciated

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  April 10, 2025
  
  Hi Chip,
  
  Thanks for the question — sounds like a fun project! Dropping an ’05 LS-based 5.3L from a Silverado into your 1970 Cutlass with a 4L60E and stock-geared posi rear end makes for a reliable cruiser with just the right amount of hot rod attitude. Since you’re keeping it mostly street-driven with some occasional spirited driving, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 2200–2400 RPM range would be a great fit.
  
  That stall range will help bring the LS engine into its powerband quicker, giving you snappier throttle response without compromising daily drivability or highway cruising. It’s especially helpful when paired with the taller gearing commonly found in stock 4L60E vans and factory posi setups. Plus, your 255/45R18 tires (about 27″ tall) strike a good balance between traction and RPM range.
  
  If you’re planning future upgrades like a cam swap or deeper gears, a slightly higher stall (up to 2600–2800) could be considered — but for your current combo, 2200–2400 is the sweet spot.
  
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. We’ll be happy to help you pick the perfect converter to bring your LS-powered Cutlass to life!
  
  Reply
Darren

April 4, 2025

I have a 71 Nova with a 383 stroker, 9.6:1 compression, bowtie 2.02/1.60 heads, comp xe268h cam with .477/.480 lift 224/230 duration @.050, air gap dual plane intake, 650 speed demon vs carb, TH350 trans, & 3:42 posi rear with a 26″ tire. Guessing should be close to 400hp and over 400ft/lbs torque. What converter would you suggest?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  April 10, 2025
  
  Hi Darren,
  
  You’ve got a great street-performance combo going in your ’71 Nova with that 383 stroker. With your Comp XE268H cam (224/230 duration @ .050″, .477/.480 lift), 9.6:1 compression, dual plane intake, TH350, and 3.42 rear gears with 26″ tires, you’re working with a solid mid-range torque setup — right in the sweet spot for a fun street car that can still light up the tires when asked.
  
  For your build, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 2400–2600 RPM range would be a great match. That stall range complements the cam’s powerband (which starts pulling hard around 2000 RPM), allowing the engine to rev into its torque curve without feeling sluggish off the line. It’ll give you crisp acceleration and better throttle response, especially during part-throttle takeoffs and spirited driving, without sacrificing driveability.
  
  If you’re doing mostly street driving with occasional hard launches, this stall range will offer the right balance between performance and comfort. And since you’re running a TH350 with decent gears and a relatively light vehicle, you won’t need anything more aggressive unless you’re planning drag strip duty.
  
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. We’ll help make sure you get the perfect torque converter for your Nova’s setup.
  
  Reply
Clyde Marchand

March 21, 2025

I have a 2000 Silverado 5.3l with 25-TSPLL2082214114 Texas Speed Stage 1 cam,
Shorty headers, 30.5 diameter tires, 4.11 rear gear, stall converter 1800
Is this converter stall ok?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  March 21, 2025
  
  Hi Clyde,
  Thanks for your question! With your 2000 Silverado 5.3L, Texas Speed Stage 1 cam (25-TSPLL2082214114), shorty headers, 4.11 gears, and 30.5” tires, you’ve got a nicely balanced setup for daily performance with a bit of extra punch. The cam you’re running has a moderate profile that likely starts making strong power around 1,800 to 2,000 RPM, with a usable powerband that climbs from there.
  Your current 1800 stall converter is borderline acceptable. It’s not harmful, but it may be a little tight for that cam, especially when launching from a stop or trying to take advantage of mid-range torque. A slightly higher stall, around 2200-2400 RPM, would allow the engine to get into the meat of the powerband quicker, improving throttle response and low-end acceleration—especially with your 4.11 gears and larger tires helping put that power to the ground. That said, if the truck feels good to drive now and you’re not experiencing bogging or sluggish takeoff, you can certainly continue running the 1800 stall. But if you’re looking to maximize the cam’s performance and improve off-the-line response, upgrading to a 2200-2400 stall converter would be a noticeable improvement.
  If you’d like help finding the right converter for your setup, give JEGS Tech Support a call at 1-800-345-4545, and we’ll make sure you get a perfect match.
  
  Reply
Jimmie Boyd

March 12, 2025

I am re-building a 1967 Chevy C10 with a 350 motor bored .40 over.. I do not know the cam , but was probably stock. ( purchased motor already rebuilt.. I need to know what torque converter I will need with standard pickup rear gears. ( not identified yet) . Yes I know it is not much info , but I am building a stock pickup , not a racer. Any help would be appreciated. Also info about the 168 tooth flexplate. Thanks

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  March 18, 2025
  
  Hi Jimmie,
  
  Since you’re rebuilding a 1967 Chevy C10 with a .040 over 350, and it’s likely running a stock or mild cam, you’ll want a torque converter designed for a stock or near-stock application. Without knowing the exact rear-end gear ratio, we can assume it’s in the 3.08 to 3.73 range, which was common for these trucks. For a stock rebuild used primarily for street driving, a factory-style torque converter with a stall speed between 1,600-1,900 RPM is ideal. This stall range ensures smooth drivability, efficient power transfer, and good low-end torque for everyday use. If you later identify the rear gears and they happen to be numerically higher (like 3.73 or above), you could consider a 2,000-2,200 stall converter for slightly improved acceleration without sacrificing drivability.
  
  Regarding the 168-tooth flexplate, it’s a common size used with internally balanced small-block Chevy (SBC) engines. Your torque converter will need to match the bolt pattern of the flexplate, and most stock-style converters are designed to fit either a 153-tooth (10.75” bolt pattern) or 168-tooth (11.5” bolt pattern) flexplate. Since you’re building a stock truck, a standard GM TH350 or TH400 torque converter that fits a 168-tooth flexplate will be the simplest option. If you need help choosing the exact converter for your setup, give JEGS Tech Support a call at 1-800-345-4545, and we’ll help you find the best match for your C10. Hope this helps, and good luck with your build!
  
  Reply
Boar76

March 10, 2025

I need to know which torque converter I’ll need.
1978 F150 4×4 w/460 running a 272 cam and Installing a TCI Maximizer 4×4 transmission. Running either 34 or 35 tires. Thanks and appreciate the help.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  March 18, 2025
  
  For your 1978 F-150 4×4 with a 460 big-block, a 272 cam, a TCI Maximizer 4×4 transmission, and 34-35” tires, you’ll need a torque converter that balances low-end torque and off-road drivability while keeping highway cruising in check. Since your 272 camshaft is relatively mild, your powerband likely starts around 1,500-1,600 RPM, meaning a 2,000-2,400 RPM stall converter would be ideal. This stall range will allow the truck to launch smoothly while providing improved throttle response over a stock converter, without excessive slippage at highway speeds. Additionally, since you’re running large 34-35” tires, your final drive ratio plays a big role—if you have numerically higher gears like 4.10s or 4.56s, the converter will engage sooner and help maintain power through the drivetrain. Given that you’re using a TCI Maximizer 4×4 transmission, I recommend calling JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545 to ensure you get a converter that matches the specific input shaft and flexplate configuration of your setup. With the right torque converter, your F-150 will have the power and drivability needed for both on-road and off-road use!
  
  Reply
Allen Baldwin

March 2, 2025

I have a 1971 F100 4000- 4200 lbs, I have a 289 4bbl, headers, dual exhaust, cam isValve Lift Intake:
.448
Valve Lift Exhaust:
.480
Duration Intake:
259
Duration Exhaust:
267
Duration at 050 Intake:
205
Duration at 050 Exhaust:
213
Lobe Separation:
112
Intake Centerline:
108
Gears are 3.50, tire 28″ tall, drive daily / stop light drag.
I putting a C4 with 24 spline in, what would be the best Torque converter for street performance?
Thank You

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  March 4, 2025
  
  Hi Allen,
  Your 1971 F100 with a 289 V8, headers, dual exhaust, and a cam with .448/.480 lift, 205/213 duration at .050, 112° LSA, 3.50 rear gears, 28” tires, and a C4 transmission (24 spline) is set up nicely for street performance and stoplight fun. To get the best out of your setup, you’ll need a torque converter that matches your cam’s powerband and provides strong off-the-line performance without sacrificing drivability.
  Recommended Stall Speed for Your Setup
  Based on your cam specs, your powerband likely starts around 1,800 RPM and pulls to about 5,500 RPM. With 3.50 gears and 28” tires, a stall speed in the 2,200-2,600 RPM range would give you:
  Good low-end torque for street driving.
  Quick launches from stoplights without feeling too loose.
  A comfortable balance between daily drivability and performance.
  Best Torque Converter Options for Street Performance
  2,200-2,400 RPM Stall Converter:
  Ideal if you want strong low-end torque for quick acceleration while keeping highway RPMs manageable.
  Works well with your mild cam and 3.50 gears.
  2,400-2,600 RPM Stall Converter:
  Best if you want a bit more punch off the line without losing street manners.
  Provides a noticeable improvement in acceleration without excessive slippage.
  Lockup vs. Non-Lockup Converter?
  Since your C4 transmission is non-lockup, you’ll need a non-lockup converter for compatibility. This type of converter:
  Maximizes power transfer at lower RPMs.
  Ensures your truck feels strong off the line and holds power through shifts.
  Best Brands for Performance & Value
  For a budget-friendly yet reliable converter, consider:
  Hughes Performance: Known for consistent stall speeds and durability.
  B&M Racing: Offers good mid-range converters for street and strip.
  TCI Automotive: Great balance of performance and price.
  All of these are available from JEGS
  
  Best Stall Speed: 2,400-2,600 RPM for strong launches and street performance.
  Converter Type: Non-lockup for your C4 transmission.
  Brands to Consider: Hughes, B&M, or TCI for reliability and value.
  If you need help picking the right torque converter, call JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545. We can help you find the best match for your F100 and make sure you get the most out of your setup. Your 289-powered F100 is going to move!
  
  Reply
Phil Quinn

February 17, 2025

I’m building a 55 Chrysler resto mod. Mostly looking to use as a cruiser with a little somethin’. Looking for recommendation for torque converter.
4160 weight
331 HEMI
Herbert flat tappet hyd cam dur 282/222@.50, lift.465, lobe center 111, center line 108
700r4
28” tires
replacing rear end not sure about gear ratio to use.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  February 18, 2025
  
  Hi Phil,
  Your 1955 Chrysler resto-mod with a 331 HEMI, Herbert hydraulic flat tappet cam (282/222 @ .050″, .465″ lift, 111° LSA), a 700R4 transmission, and 28” tires is a great platform for a cruiser with some added punch. Since you’re still deciding on the rear-end gear ratio, let’s break down what torque converter will work best based on different gear choices.
  Key Considerations for Your Torque Converter Selection
  Camshaft RPM Range:
  Your cam has a moderate duration (222° @ .050”), meaning it makes good low-end torque but starts to wake up around 2,000+ RPM.
  Ideal stall speed: 2200-2600 RPM to match this powerband.
  Vehicle Weight & Transmission:
  Your Chrysler weighs 4160 lbs, so a slightly higher stall is helpful for acceleration.
  The 700R4’s lower first gear (3.06:1) helps with initial takeoff, allowing for a mid-range stall converter without feeling sluggish.
  Rear Gear Ratio (If Undecided):
  If you go with a 3.42-3.73 gear ratio: A 2400-2600 RPM stall converter will be the best fit for smooth drivability and power delivery.
  If you choose a 3.08-3.23 ratio: A lower 2200-2400 stall may be better for highway cruising efficiency.
  Recommended Torque Converters from JEGS
  Based on your setup and goals, here are three great options:
  1. TCI Saturday Night Special 2400 Stall Converter (JEGS Part # 890-242600)
  Best for: Balanced Street Performance & Highway Cruising
  Stall Speed: ~2400 RPM
  Why?
  Ideal for a camshaft in the 2200+ RPM powerband.
  Works well with 700R4’s 3.06 first gear and 3.42+ rear gears.
  Great for cruising with occasional spirited driving.
  2. B&M Holeshot 2400 Torque Converter (JEGS Part # 130-70419)
  Best for: Mild Street Performance with Stronger Off-the-Line Feel
  Stall Speed: ~2400-2600 RPM
  Why?
  Gives better acceleration from a stop.
  Works well with mid-range camshaft duration like yours.
  Good fit for 3.42-3.73 gears, but still okay with 3.23s.
  3. Hughes Performance Street Master 2200-2500 Stall (JEGS Part # 512-21-25L)
  Best for: A Smooth Cruiser That Can Still Get Up & Go
  Stall Speed: ~2200-2500 RPM
  Why?
  Best option if you end up using 3.08-3.23 gears.
  Great for a relaxed yet responsive driving experience.
  Works with your cam’s low-mid powerband without excessive slip.
  Additional Considerations
  Transmission Cooler is Mandatory:
  A 700R4 with a higher-stall converter generates more heat—install a dedicated transmission cooler to protect it.
  Lockup vs. Non-Lockup:
  Since you’re using a 700R4, consider a lockup torque converter for highway cruising efficiency.
  Best Rear Gear Ratio for Your Goals:
  For better acceleration: 3.42-3.73 gears are ideal.
  For highway efficiency: 3.08-3.23 gears will keep RPMs lower at cruising speed.
  Your 331 HEMI 1955 Chrysler is going to be a smooth and powerful cruiser! Based on your cam and weight, a 2400-2600 stall converter is the best fit. Once you decide on your rear-end gears, you can fine-tune the stall speed to match.
  If you need help ordering the right converter, call JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545. Enjoy the build—your resto-mod is going to be awesome!
  
  Reply
2. Don Corneau
  
  February 20, 2025
  
  Hi Phil,
  66 Mustang, 289 .030, 12.5.1 compression, comp cam 320/640 solid roller, 280@.050, comp roller lifters, roller rockers, Afr 185 heads, 2.02/1.60, eagle rods, victor junior, 750cfm dominator. 9 inch w/4.10, 245/60/15 rear tires. Just going to be a cruising. Cam 4500-8500rpm. What converter do you recommend. Thanks, Don
  
  Reply
  1. Pete Mitchell
    
    February 20, 2025
    
    Don, we think you meant to ask us the question instead of another reader, if so:
    Your 1966 Mustang with a high-compression 289 (.030 over), solid roller cam (280° @ .050, .640” lift, 4500-8500 RPM powerband), AFR 185 heads, Victor Jr. intake, Holley 750 Dominator, and 4.10 rear gears is a serious setup—even for a cruiser! Choosing the right torque converter is critical to getting the best performance and drivability out of your build.
    Recommended Stall Speed for Your Setup
    Since your Comp Cams solid roller cam has a 4500-8500 RPM powerband, you’ll need a high-stall torque converter that allows the engine to launch into the cam’s effective RPM range. Here’s why:
    A 4500-5000 RPM stall converter is ideal—this allows your high-revving 289 to reach its powerband quickly without bogging.
    Too low of a stall (below 4000) will make the car sluggish off the line and hurt performance.
    Your 4.10 rear gears help, but you still need the right converter to get into the cam’s sweet spot fast.
    Best Torque Converter Type for Your Mustang
    Non-Lockup Converter – Since your car is built for high-RPM cruising and not highway fuel efficiency, a non-lockup converter is the best choice.
    8″ or 9″ Race-Style Converter – A smaller-diameter converter will allow the engine to flash up to the stall speed quickly.
    Best Stall Speed: 4500-5000 RPM
    Converter Type: Non-lockup, race-style converter
    Diameter: 8″ or 9″
    Best Brands to Consider: Look for performance-oriented brands that specialize in high-stall converters, such as TCI, Hughes, and others available at JEGS.com.
    With your high-compression, high-RPM solid roller setup, a 4500-5000 stall converter is the best choice to match your cam’s powerband. Since there are many variations in torque converter designs, I’d recommend calling JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545 to find the exact converter that fits your transmission and driving style.
    Enjoy cruising your high-revving ‘66 Mustang!
    
    Reply
Boss Kimbrell

February 11, 2025

I have a daily driver 9:1 compression 496 with a Comp Cams .652/.652 lift 255/262 @.050” and 114° lsa ‘turbo/nitrous’ cam with a stated ’3500-7000’ peak power range. The truck weighs in at 4360lbs w/me in it and currently has 4.11 gears (‘may’ go to 3.73s). Although I knew it was a little tight, I ran a 2800-3200 PTC for the last 2 years and actually loved it! Perfect street manners and still cut consistent 1.55 60’s BUT that was also with a 4L60E (that I managed to run 6.XXs in the 1/8th with a small shot of N2O btw)!
My question being after the 2 major changes: Just bolted on an F-1A-94 ProCharger and wouldn’t you know it, murdered my 60E the very next day just making 2nd/3rd street pulls. So, I’m now having a 4L80E built with full mvb and trans brake. Biggest difference being the blower (obviously) and going from the 3.06:1 low gear 60E to the 2.48:1 low gear 80E…I’ve got a SMOKING deal on another 2800-3200 for the 80E!

Will it be enough stall to NOT leave like a dog?! (still pulled the wheels with the 60E & 2800-3200 btw). My mind says a 3500 to maybe even 4000 would be ideal BUT I love a good deal and love good street manners even more. Thanks in advance!

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  February 12, 2025
  
  Hi Boss, and thanks for the great question! Your daily-driven 496 big-block Chevy with 9:1 compression, a Comp Cams .652” lift 255/262 @.050” 114° LSA turbo/nitrous cam (3500-7000 RPM powerband), a ProCharged F-1A-94, and a 4L80E with a trans brake is a serious build! You’re also coming from a 4L60E with a 2800-3200 stall that worked well for your setup before the major changes.
  Now that you’ve switched to a 4L80E and added the ProCharger, let’s break down what stall speed will work best.
  Will the 2800-3200 Stall Be Enough?
  Short answer: It might work, but a higher stall would be ideal.
  Major Differences with the New Setup
  Blower Power Curve: Your F-1A-94 ProCharger significantly changes how the engine delivers power. Unlike nitrous, which is instant, the blower ramps up boost with RPM, so you need a converter that allows the engine to get into boost quickly.
  4L80E’s Taller 2.48 First Gear: The 4L80E’s 2.48 first gear is much taller than your old 4L60E’s 3.06 first gear. This means you lose mechanical leverage, which could make launching feel lazier with the same stall speed.
  Increased Vehicle Load: With 4360 lbs curb weight, a ProCharged BBC, and the 4L80E’s extra rotating mass, the converter needs to let the engine rev into boost sooner to avoid bogging.
  What Happens If You Keep the 2800-3200 Stall?
  Street Manners Will Be Excellent: If you’re prioritizing street manners, this stall will still work, but…
  Launch Performance Will Suffer: The blower won’t be in its powerband fast enough, and the taller first gear means less off-the-line grunt.
  Might Feel Lazy on the Hit: Since you’ve already felt the difference from the 4L60E’s better first gear, you may notice it takes longer to hit peak torque with the new setup.
  Ideal Stall Speed for Your ProCharged 496 & 4L80E
  Recommended Stall: 3500-4000 RPM
  Why?
  -Allows the engine to rev into boost sooner for better throttle response.
  -Compensates for the taller 2.48 first gear in the 4L80E.
  -Keeps street manners manageable, especially with a tight-stall, multi-disc lockup converter.
  -Helps avoid a “lazy launch” feeling compared to your old setup.
  Your Best Options
  If Street Manners Are the #1 Priority:
  A 3200-3500 stall with a tight design (like a multi-disc lockup)
  Good for cruising, but launches may feel softer than before.
  If You Want the Best Balance:
  A 3500-3800 stall (recommended for max efficiency with boost and gearing).
  Keeps power delivery smooth and still cuts 1.5X 60-foot times.
  If You Want Max Performance:
  A 4000 stall will wake up the ProCharger off the line and provide brutal launches.
  Still streetable but not as tight as a lower-stall unit.
  
  If the 2800-3200 is a “smoking deal,” it can work, but expect a softer launch.
  A 3500-4000 stall is ideal to optimize boost response, launch power, and 4L80E gearing.
  For the best of both worlds, consider a tight 3500 lockup converter (like a Circle D, PTC, or Yank).
  
  If you need help choosing a converter, feel free to call JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545, we are more than happy to help you out! Your ProCharged 496 with the 4L80E is going to be a monster!
  
  Reply
Ernest Adams

February 9, 2025

Hello. I am looking for the optimum stall for my 200-R4. The current stall is 2000; however, a transmission shop i visited stated it felt more like 1800 – 2200. My car is a 72 Impala coupe. Curb weight is approximately 4200 lbs. Rear end gearing is 3.73 with 28″ diameter tires. As it sits now, I have the stock 350 with an aftermarket dual plane intake (Edelbrock 2101), stock flat-tappet cam (less than 205 @ 050 with a 112 LSA), a 600-cfm Performer carb (Edelbrock 1406), an HEI distributor and 1-5/8″ mid-length headers. I’m building a 388 stroker motor for the car with an emphasis upon low-end torque. Additional upgrades include a custom Erson hydraulic roller cam (222/222 @ 050 duration/110 LSA/1500 – 6000 rpm band), Street Warrior intake manifold (Weiand 1825) and a 650-cfm carburetor (Edelbrock 1906). Will the current stall suffice or should I upgrade that as well? Current heads are iron sbc casting (10110810) which are supposed to flow up 4500 rpm with a lift just under .500. Upgraded heads are Promaxx Project X Series 185cc aluminum heads which flow up to 6500 rpm with a .700 lift (cam’s lift is .510/.510 with a 1.5 RR). I will use 1.6 RR.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  February 10, 2025
  
  Hi Ernest,
  Your 1972 Impala coupe with a 200-4R transmission, 3.73 rear gears, and 28” tires is undergoing a serious performance boost with your 388 stroker build. Upgrading the stall converter is a crucial step to ensure your transmission matches the new engine’s characteristics.
  Will Your Current 2000 RPM Stall Work?
  Your current 1800-2200 RPM stall is fine for the stock 350, which has a mild cam and limited airflow. However, with your 388 stroker’s bigger cam (222/222 @ .050, 110 LSA, .510+ lift) and Promaxx heads, the powerband shifts higher. A 2000 stall is too low—it won’t allow the engine to reach its optimal torque range quickly enough.
  Recommended Stall Converter for Your 388 Stroker
  For your new engine setup, a 2800-3200 RPM stall converter is ideal. Here’s why:
  Matches the Cam & Powerband:
  Your larger cam’s RPM range means you need a converter that allows the engine to reach the sweet spot quickly.
  A 2800-3200 stall will provide stronger launches and better throttle response.
  Works with 3.73 Gears & 200-4R Transmission:
  Your 3.73 gears help low-end acceleration, but a higher-stall converter further enhances off-the-line performance.
  The 200-4R’s overdrive (.67 final gear ratio) keeps highway cruising RPMs reasonable, even with a higher-stall converter.
  Improves Low-End Torque Utilization:
  Your 388 stroker is built for torque, and a higher-stall converter prevents bogging at lower RPMs.
  The 1.6 rocker arms will increase valve lift slightly, which also favors a slightly higher stall.
  Best choice: A lockup 2800-3200 stall converter gives you the best of both worlds—performance and highway efficiency.
  Additional Considerations
  Transmission Cooler: A high-capacity transmission cooler is mandatory with a higher-stall converter to prevent overheating.
  Converter Brand Recommendations: Consider Hughes Performance, FTI, or TCI for a high-quality 2800-3200 stall converter.
  So, For the current 350: The 2000 stall is fine.
  For the 388 stroker: Upgrade to a 2800-3200 RPM stall converter.
  Lockup? Yes, for highway cruising efficiency.
  Transmission Cooler? Yes, to prevent overheating.
  If you need assistance selecting the right torque converter, call JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545. With this upgrade, your 388 stroker-powered Impala will be a whole new beast!
  
  Reply
  1. Ernest Adams
    
    February 12, 2025
    
    I am a little confused. My cam’s power band, 1500 – 5000 (6000), is based upon a standard sbc 350. Shouldn’t the additional engine displacement move the cam’s powerband approximately 200 – 500 rpm to the left rendering it effectively 1300 – 5600? If that’s the case, why would the stall move up?
    
    Reply
    1. Pete Mitchell
      
      February 12, 2025
      
      Hi Ernest,
      Great follow-up question! You’re absolutely right that increasing displacement shifts the cam’s effective powerband slightly lower, which is an important factor in choosing the right stall speed. Let’s go over why a higher-stall converter is still recommended despite that shift.
      Does the Larger Displacement Lower the Cam’s Powerband?
      Yes, a larger displacement engine (your 388 stroker) will move the cam’s powerband down by around 200-500 RPM, depending on airflow, compression, and tuning. That means your 1500-6000 RPM cam in a 350 SBC might now behave more like a 1300-5600 RPM cam in the 388.
      Why Would the Stall Speed Still Need to Be Higher?
      Even though the powerband shifts down slightly, the need for a higher stall speed isn’t based solely on the powerband—it’s about how quickly the engine can reach its optimal torque range. Here’s why:
      Larger Displacement = More Torque at All RPMs: Your 388 stroker produces significantly more torque than your stock 350 at all RPMs. More torque allows the engine to handle a higher-stall converter without excessive slippage or heat buildup.
      Matching the Stall to Your Cam’s Characteristics
      Your 222/222 duration cam with a 110 LSA is still more aggressive than the stock cam, meaning it needs some RPM before it really “comes alive.”
      A stall in the 2800-3200 RPM range ensures you launch with more power instead of waiting for the engine to climb into the torque curve.
      Vehicle Weight & Gearing Matter
      Your 1972 Impala is heavy (~4200 lbs), which means a higher stall helps get the car moving quicker.
      Your 3.73 rear gears already help low-end acceleration, but pairing them with a slightly higher-stall converter keeps you from lugging at takeoff.
      Converter Stall vs. Cruising RPM
      Your 200-4R’s overdrive (0.67 final gear ratio) means that even with a 2800-3200 stall, your highway RPMs remain reasonable.
      A lockup converter ensures efficiency once you’re cruising.
      So, why 2800-3200 RPM Stall?
      Yes, your cam’s powerband shifts lower due to the 388 stroker. However, the higher torque output and heavier vehicle require a higher stall to avoid sluggishness off the line.
      A 2800-3200 stall ensures better launches, quicker throttle response, and stronger acceleration, without negatively affecting highway drivability.
      For the stock 350: The 2000 stall is fine.
      For the 388 stroker: Upgrade to a 2800-3200 RPM stall converter.
      Lockup? Yes, for highway cruising efficiency.
      Transmission Cooler? Yes, to prevent overheating.
      
      The best way to confirm the above answer is to go directly to the camshaft manufacturer and ask for their recommendation. This will confirm the above information we have provided.
      
      As another option, you can call JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545, we will be more than happy to help you out!
      
      Reply
      1. Ernest Adams
        
        February 12, 2025
        
        I called the tech number after reading your response and browsing Jegs for a 200-R4 torque convertor within that range. Unfortunately, I did not find one. I did find a 2500 and 3000 stall. Robert stated that each stall has a dynamic vice static operating range. So, a 2500 stall would actually range 2300 – 2700 (2800 – 3200 for the 3000 stall). Is that indeed the case? He also suggested going with the lower stall since the car would be used for cruising 96% of the time. My car will see ZERO track time. I just want lots of torque to move that car whenever I need to and to spin the tires occasionally.
      2. Ernest Adams
        
        February 12, 2025
        
        Also, what cam duration would you recommend for my current setup (OEM 350/cast iron heads 10110810/1800 – 2000 stall) until I finish assembling parts, building and installing the 388 (388 SHOULD be completed near the end of summer). I would like to spice up the 350 now with a new flat-tappet cam and lifter set that maximizes what’s there.
      3. Pete Mitchell
        
        February 13, 2025
        
        Hi Ernest,
        Thanks for following up! Let’s address both of your questions: torque converter stall range and cam selection for your current 350 while you build your 388 stroker.
        1. Understanding Torque Converter Stall Range
        Yes, Robert is correct—torque converters have a dynamic stall range rather than a fixed RPM. The actual stall speed varies depending on:
        Engine torque output (more torque = higher effective stall)
        Vehicle weight
        Gearing
        For example:
        A 2500 stall converter typically operates within 2300-2700 RPM and a 3000 stall converter operates within 2800-3200 RPM.
        2. Should You Choose the 2500 or 3000 Stall Converter?
        Since your car is used for 96% street cruising and zero track time, going with the 2500 stall makes sense. Here’s why:
        Street Manners: A 2500 stall will keep cruising RPMs closer to stock while still improving acceleration.
        Better Low-Speed Efficiency: Since the car won’t see the track, a higher stall (3000+) would be unnecessary and could make the car feel less responsive at lower speeds.
        Good Torque Utilization: A 2500 stall allows improved off-the-line acceleration without excessive slip in normal driving.
        Transmission Longevity: The 200-4R transmission benefits from a slightly lower stall for cooler operation during long drives.
        
        For your current 350 & upcoming 388 stroker: The 2500 stall (actual 2300-2700 RPM range) is the best choice for cruising and occasional tire-spinning fun.
        3. Best Flat-Tappet Cam for Your OEM 350 (Until the 388 is Ready)
        Since you want to maximize your current 350’s performance with a new cam and lifter set, here’s what we need to consider:
        
        Your OEM 350 heads (10110810 castings) flow best below 4500 RPM.
        Your current stall (1800-2000 RPM) limits you to a cam with good low-end torque.
        You want a street-friendly cam with better response, throttle feel, and occasional tire-spinning fun.
        
        Best All-Around Street Cam:
        Comp Cams XE256H (12-234-2)
        Duration @ .050”: 212°/218°
        Lift: .447″/.454″
        LSA: 110°
        RPM Range: 1000-5200 RPM
        Why? Great low-end torque for your heavy car and small stall. Excellent for street use and occasional burnouts.
        Slightly More Aggressive Option:
        Lunati Voodoo 60101
        Duration @ .050”: 213°/219°
        Lift: .454”/.468”
        LSA: 112°
        RPM Range: 1200-5500 RPM
        Why? Adds a slightly more aggressive idle while keeping excellent low-end torque.
        Final Camshaft Recommendation for Your 350
        If you want smooth idle and great drivability: Comp XE256H
        If you want a little more sound and punch: Lunati Voodoo 60101
        Since you’re running a flat-tappet cam, don’t forget new lifters and a proper zinc-based break-in oil!
        
        If you need help ordering the right parts, call JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545. Enjoy the process—your 388 stroker build is going to be a beast when it’s ready!
      4. Ernest Adams
        
        February 18, 2025
        
        Which torque convertors brands do you suggest offer the most bang per buck? My flex plate is Pioneer Automotive Industries, which has 168 teeth and a 10.75″ convertor diameter. So far, Hughes provided a quote for $675 plus s/h for a (21-25L) and Summit listed a Boss Hogg convertor (48403) at $565 which advertises the original stall range you suggested (2800-3200). What are your suggestions?
      5. Pete Mitchell
        
        February 18, 2025
        
        Hi Ernest,
        Thanks for following up! Since you’re looking for the best bang-for-the-buck torque converter for your 200-4R transmission with a 168-tooth flexplate and 10.75” bolt pattern, there are a few things to consider when choosing the right brand and model.
        Recommended Torque Converter Brands
        For your street-driven 388 stroker with a 2800-3200 stall range, I’d suggest looking at reputable brands that offer durability, consistent stall speeds, and good street manners. Here are a few well-known options:
        Hughes Performance – Known for high-quality street/strip torque converters with reliable stall ratings. They may be on the pricier side, but they are well-built and long-lasting.
        TCI Automotive – Offers a balance between performance and affordability. Their converters are great for both street-driven and occasional performance applications.
        B&M Racing – Provides solid street converters that maintain good torque multiplication while keeping drivability in mind.
        Boss Hogg by ACC Performance – A good budget-friendly option that still offers reliable stall speeds and smooth engagement.
        How to Choose the Right One?
        Since you’re mostly cruising with occasional spirited driving, I’d recommend sticking with a lockup converter to improve highway efficiency while still allowing strong acceleration. A non-lockup option might provide slightly better stall performance but isn’t ideal for long highway drives.
        If you want maximum reliability and performance, Hughes and TCI are excellent choices. If you’re trying to stay within a lower budget, Boss Hogg or B&M could be great alternatives.
        To ensure you get the correct fit for your specific 200-4R setup, I highly recommend calling JEGS Tech Support at 1-800-345-4545. Our team can help you find the exact torque converter that meets your needs while ensuring compatibility with your flexplate and transmission.
        Let us know how we can help, and good luck with your 388 stroker build!
      6. Ernest Adams
        
        February 18, 2025
        
        I have a Champion 4-core aluminum radiator with a built-in transmission cooler. Is that sufficient cooling or do I need to install an external cooler?
      7. Pete Mitchell
        
        February 18, 2025
        
        Ernest, Your Champion 4-Core Aluminum Radiator’s Built-in Transmission Cooler Helps, But It’s Not Enough.
        Why? Higher stall converters generate more heat, and running only a radiator-mounted trans cooler can lead to higher transmission temps, especially during stop-and-go driving.
        What’s Recommended? Add a dedicated external transmission cooler for extra protection.
        Best External Transmission Coolers for Your Setup
        Budget-Friendly Option:
        JEGS 18,000 GVW Transmission Cooler JEGS Part # 555-60372
        Why? Works great for street-driven vehicles with a moderate stall converter.
        Easy to install with cooling fins for efficiency.
        There are many other options available on http://www.jegs.com, and you can’t go too big on a transmission cooler unless you drive the vehicle in below freezing temperatures.
MICHAEL MANSI

February 5, 2025

Hi,
67′ Chevelle. Do you know what stall speed I should use for the new converter?

Reply
1. Michael Mansi
  
  February 5, 2025
  
  Hi Michael,
  Thanks for reaching out to us, the right torque converter stall speed will help maximi
  
  Reply
Ken nunnery

February 1, 2025

I have 55 Chevy belair with ls 3 hot cam from factory .It has a turbo 400 gear vender overdrive with 390 gears . What is a good stall converter to use .I currently have a 2300 stall speed.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  February 3, 2025
  
  Hi Ken,
  Your 1955 Chevy Bel Air with an LS3 Hot Cam, Turbo 400 transmission, Gear Vendors overdrive, and 3.90 gears is a strong combination for both performance and cruising. Choosing the right torque converter stall speed will help maximize power while maintaining drivability. For your setup, a 2800-3200 RPM stall converter would be ideal. Here’s why:
  The GM Hot Cam has a 219/228 duration at .050″ lift and a 112° LSA, which moves the powerband higher in the RPM range.
  A 2800-3200 RPM stall will allow the engine to get into the cam’s torque curve more quickly for stronger acceleration.
  Your TH400 transmission doesn’t have a lockup converter, so a stall too high could create excessive heat.
  The Gear Vendors overdrive keeps highway RPMs manageable, allowing you to run a slightly higher stall without sacrificing efficiency.
  Your 3.90 rear gears already help with acceleration, meaning you don’t need an excessively high stall.
  A 2800-3200 stall will provide strong launches while keeping the car comfortable for street driving.
  Why Upgrade from a 2300 Stall?
  While 2300 RPM is not bad, it’s slightly too low for your LS3 Hot Cam, which makes power higher in the rev range.
  Upgrading to 2800-3200 RPM will make the car feel more responsive and allow better power delivery off the line.
  Additional Considerations
  Since the TH400 doesn’t have a lockup feature, adding a high-performance transmission cooler is highly recommended.
  Look for TCI, Hughes Performance, or FTI (all available from JEGS) for quality LS-compatible converters.
  If you need help choosing the right converter, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. Your ’55 Bel Air is going to feel much more lively with the right stall!
  
  Reply
Chris

January 30, 2025

Hello, I have a 1994 bronco 5.0 4×4 with 4.56 gears and 34.5” tires. Curb weight about 4700 lbs. Transmission is an E4OD. Engine has AFR 165 heads, edelbrock EFI intake, and cam is custom with Intake Lift: .584″ intake Duration: 215 Centerline: 106 Exhaust Lift: .584″ exhaust Duration: 219. I drive it on the highway often, but I also enjoy riding the forest roads. I plan on installing a kenne bell that I have had sitting around. I’m wondering if replacing the converter would help it feel a bit quicker without affecting drivability? Would adding the kenne bell force a change in converter again? Thank you!

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  January 31, 2025
  
  Hi Chris,
  With your 1994 Bronco 5.0 4×4, E4OD transmission, AFR 165 heads, Edelbrock EFI intake, a custom cam (.584″ lift, 215/219 duration), 4.56 gears, and 34.5” tires, you’ve built a great mix of performance and off-road capability. Choosing the right torque converter can certainly help improve throttle response without sacrificing drivability.
  For your current naturally aspirated setup, a 2400-2600 RPM stall converter would be ideal. Here’s why:
  Your cam (215/219 duration, 106 centerline) has a moderate profile with good low-end torque, so you don’t need an excessively high stall. A 2400-2600 stall will let the engine rev into its powerband faster while keeping highway manners intact.
  Since you frequently drive on the highway, a lockup torque converter is highly recommended. It will reduce heat and improve efficiency at cruising speeds.
  For forest road driving, this stall range will provide better low-speed response without making the transmission feel sluggish.
  Effect of 4.56 Gears & 34.5” Tires
  The 4.56 gears already help with low-end acceleration, so a mid-range stall (2400-2600) complements the gearing without over-revving at takeoff.
  Your E4OD transmission has an overdrive, so pairing a lockup converter with your gearing ensures better fuel economy on long highway trips.
  How Will the Kenne Bell Supercharger Affect This?
  Once you install the Kenne Bell, the increased torque output—especially in the low RPM range—will shift the converter requirements slightly.
  Supercharged Setup Recommendation: A 2200-2400 RPM stall may be better to harness the boost and avoid excessive converter slip.
  Many torque converter manufacturers allow re-stalling services, so you may not need a whole new converter—just a reworked stall speed.
  Additional Recommendations
  A high-capacity transmission cooler is essential to keep the E4OD running cool with a higher stall converter.
  Converter Brand Choices:
  Look at Hughes Performance for lockup converters tailored for street and off-road applications.
  Fine-Tuning After Installation:
  Custom ECU tuning may be necessary after installing the new converter and the Kenne Bell to optimize shift points and throttle response.
  For your current setup: 2400-2600 RPM lockup converter.
  After the Kenne Bell install: 2200-2400 RPM lockup converter to handle boost more efficiently.
  Lockup Feature? Yes! Crucial for highway efficiency.
  If you need help finding the right torque converter, feel free to contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist. Enjoy your Bronco build—sounds like a beast!
  
  Reply
  1. Chris
    
    February 2, 2025
    
    Thank you Pete! Sounds like the stall speed recommendation won’t be too far off between setups, however if I remember adding the blower it will stall differently than one set up to stall at 24-2600 at a lower power level. Guess I need to make up my mind!
    
    Reply
Rick james

January 26, 2025

I have a 2008 silverado 5.3 with a stage 3 texas speed truck cam, 317 aluminum 6.0 heads with the proper valvetrain for the cam, cold air intake, long tube headers, stock 4L70E transmission, and 4.10 gears, what size stall would be good for daily drivability and still be able to have some fun when I want to?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  January 28, 2025
  
  Hi Rick,
  With your 2008 Silverado 5.3, a Stage 3 Texas Speed Truck Cam, 317 heads, and supporting mods like a cold air intake, long tube headers, a stock 4L70E transmission, and 4.10 gears, you’ve got a great setup for performance. The right torque converter stall speed will balance daily drivability with the fun factor you’re looking for.
  A 3000-3200 RPM stall converter is ideal for your setup. Here’s why:
  A Stage 3 cam typically has a more aggressive duration and lift, which moves the powerband higher in the RPM range. A stall speed of 3000-3200 RPM ensures the converter flashes into the cam’s sweet spot, providing strong launches and mid-range acceleration.
  A 3000-3200 stall is high enough to match your cam’s powerband but still low enough to be manageable for daily driving. It won’t feel overly “loose” in normal stop-and-go traffic.
  With 4.10 gears, your truck is already set up for quicker acceleration, and the 3000-3200 stall will let you put the power to the ground effectively. It also provides the responsiveness you’ll want for spirited driving while staying efficient for daily use.
  Your 4L70E’s gearing (with a 3.06 first gear) complements the 3000-3200 stall, helping the truck launch quickly while keeping shifts smooth.
  Additional Considerations:
  Higher stall converters generate more heat, so installing a high-capacity transmission cooler (like from JEGS) is essential to keep the 4L70E running cool and reliable.
  For daily drivability and highway efficiency, a lockup torque converter is highly recommended. This will ensure the converter locks at cruising speeds to minimize slippage and improve fuel economy.
  Look for quality converters from brands like TCI, as they specialize in performance-oriented converters for setups like yours. They may also offer converters tailored to Texas Speed cam specs.
  A proper tune is critical when installing a higher-stall converter. It ensures the transmission shifts at the right RPM and that everything works harmoniously with your cam and converter.
  A 3000-3200 RPM stall lockup converter will give you the best balance for daily driving and fun when you want to put your foot down. With your 4.10 gears and aggressive cam, this stall speed will allow you to maximize the performance of your Silverado without sacrificing everyday usability.
  If you need additional assistance or help finding the right torque converter, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a JEGS tech support specialist. Enjoy your build!
  
  Reply
Danny M Malyurek

January 20, 2025

I have a 56 chevy cameo pickup, engine is a stock built 390 hp 427. it shows 390 hp at 5200 rpm & 470 foot pounds of torque at 3600 rpm. I’ll be using a turbo 400 w/2.48 first gear and a gear vendor overdrive with .78 final drive. the rear end is 3.90 with a 29″ tall tire 235/75/15 the truck weighs 3790# The engine idles at around 750-800 rpm has a very good response with the 870 cfm Holley & 10.5 to 1 compression. What’s your recommendation on torque converter stall speed? Using the calculator I know that at 65 mph my rpm will be about 2290 when in overdrive.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  January 20, 2025
  
  Hi Danny,
  Your 1956 Chevy Cameo pickup with a stock 390 HP 427, Turbo 400 transmission, Gear Vendors overdrive, 3.90 rear gears, 29″ tires, and a curb weight of 3,790 lbs is a well-thought-out build. Choosing the right torque converter stall speed is critical to ensure your truck performs well both on the street and at highway speeds. A 2200-2400 RPM stall speed would be ideal for your setup. Here’s why:
  Engine Characteristics:
  With 390 HP at 5200 RPM, 470 ft-lbs of torque at 3600 RPM, and a responsive throttle, a 2200-2400 RPM stall converter will ensure the engine can get into its powerband quickly while maintaining excellent street manners.
  Street-Focused Drivability:
  Since your truck is primarily a street-driven vehicle with highway cruising in mind, a 2200-2400 stall speed provides the best balance between off-the-line performance and efficiency at lower RPMs, ensuring smooth take-offs and minimal heat generation.
  Compatibility with Gearing:
  Your 3.90 rear gears and 29” tall tires create a solid setup for acceleration. A 2200-2400 RPM stall speed works harmoniously with your Turbo 400’s 2.48 first gear and Gear Vendors overdrive, ensuring quick response without unnecessary slippage at cruising speeds (around 2290 RPM at 65 mph in overdrive).
  Idle Speed and Low-End Response:
  Since your engine idles at 750-800 RPM and has excellent low-end response, a lower stall speed (2200-2400 RPM) keeps your drivability intact while still delivering improved launch performance when needed.
  Additional Considerations
  Non-Lockup Converter:
  Since the Turbo 400 is a non-lockup transmission, a quality non-lockup converter is perfect. The Gear Vendors overdrive will help maintain efficient highway cruising. Look for a converter from reputable manufacturers like Hughes Performance, B&M, or TCI, all available from JEGS. Many of these brands offer converters tailored to street performance with a specific stall range.
  Transmission Cooler:
  With any higher-stall torque converter, it’s crucial to install a good transmission cooler to protect the Turbo 400 from heat buildup and extend its lifespan, and with many options available at JEGS.
  
  A 2200-2400 RPM stall converter is the sweet spot for your truck. It will give you solid off-the-line performance to match the torque of your 427 while maintaining street-friendly manners and efficient highway cruising.
  If you need additional assistance, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a JEGS tech support specialist.
  
  Reply
Billy

January 8, 2025

Hi,
I have a ’72 Chevy Blazer 4×4 with a BBC 454. I am looking for a recommended torque converter stall and whether I need lock up or not.
The engine is a 454 30 over with flat tops, Clay Smith Hyd Roller cam (see specs below) and valve train, AFR 3610 heads, they are 265cc Oval Port with 109cc chambers and 1 3/4″ headers / 3″ exhaust. The cam manufacturer claims approx. 575HP with the current heads/pistons but I have no idea of actual HP.
The transmission is a 700R4, don’t know much more about it. Gears are 5:13 with 40″ tall tires. Vehicle weight close to 5000lbs.
The truck is just a weekend street cruiser, no off-roading and no racing but wanting to be able to light the tires up from take-off as needed!
Thank you for any information!

CLAY SMITH HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM SPECS.
Part. No. 160-3103 Grind No. HR-8486-7-CSR
Advertised Duration – 284/286
Duration @ .050 – 225/227
.200” Duration – 137/136
Lift .559/.530
Centers 103/111
LSA 107

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  January 10, 2025
  
  Hi Billy,
  Your ’72 Chevy Blazer 4×4 with a BBC 454, 700R4 transmission, 5.13 gears, and 40” tires is a heavy-duty setup that requires a torque converter tailored for your specific goals. Based on your build and usage, here’s a detailed recommendation:
  Recommended Torque Converter Stall Speed
  For your combination, a stall speed in the 2800-3200 RPM range would be ideal. Here’s why:
  Match to Your Camshaft:
  Your Clay Smith Hydraulic Roller Cam (225°/227° @ 0.050 and .559/.530 lift with a 107° LSA) is designed for strong mid-range torque and horsepower. A stall in the 2800-3200 range allows the engine to get into the optimal RPM range quickly, maximizing the power delivery.
  Heavy Vehicle Weight:
  With a weight of nearly 5000 lbs and 40” tires, the higher stall speed ensures your Blazer can overcome the inertia of its heavy setup, especially with tall gears like 5.13s.
  Gearing and Tires:
  Your 5.13 gears work to offset the load of the 40” tires, which is crucial for maintaining strong low-end response. The recommended stall speed complements this gearing for crisp take-offs and controlled power delivery.
  Street-Friendly:
  A 2800-3200 RPM stall converter is streetable and won’t feel overly aggressive for your weekend cruiser. It balances power and drivability perfectly for lighting up the tires on demand.
  Lockup vs. Non-Lockup
  With your 700R4 transmission, a lockup torque converter is recommended for the following reasons:
  Improved Efficiency:
  The lockup feature eliminates slippage at highway speeds, reducing transmission heat and improving fuel efficiency.
  Cruising Comfort:
  Since your truck is a street cruiser, the lockup ensures smoother operation and less wear on the transmission when cruising.
  Additional Considerations
  Transmission Cooler:
  High-stall converters generate more heat. Install a high-capacity transmission cooler to protect your 700R4 and ensure longevity.
  Test and Tune:
  Once installed, fine-tune your setup (ignition timing, carburetor, or EFI) to ensure optimal performance with the new converter.
  A 2800-3200 RPM stall lockup converter is the sweet spot for your Blazer, delivering strong low-end performance while maintaining street-friendly manners. If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a JEGS tech support specialist.
  
  Reply
Bearded Pirate

December 30, 2024

I have a Chevy 350 with a comp cams thumpr hydraulic roller cam. It engine dynos at 450 peak torque at 5200 and peak horsepower of 470 at 6000 rpm. It’s over 400lbs of torque all the way through the rpm range from 3000 on. I’m running a Th350 trans and the car right now has a 3.08 rear gear and 29 inch tires. The car weighs about 3500 with driver. What converter stall speed do you recommend for street driving with occasional burnouts and shutting down some kid at the Red light in his Honda with the lawn mower muffler on it. Thanks for your help.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 30, 2024
  
  Thank you for your question!
  With your setup—a Chevy 350 with a Comp Cams Thumpr hydraulic roller cam, 450 lb-ft of peak torque at 5200 RPM, a TH350 transmission, 3.08 rear gears, 29-inch tires, and a 3500-pound car—choosing the right torque converter stall speed is crucial for both street performance and occasional spirited driving. Here’s my recommendation:
  Recommended Torque Converter Stall Speed
  For your combination, a stall speed between 2800-3200 RPM would be ideal. Here’s why:
  Match to Cam Profile:
  The Comp Cams Thumpr cam is designed for strong mid-to-upper RPM power, and a stall converter in this range will allow the engine to launch in the sweet spot of its torque curve, giving you both low-end grunt and high-RPM power.
  Street-Friendly:
  A stall speed in the 2800-3200 range is high enough to deliver strong off-the-line performance without being overly aggressive for street driving. A converter like the Hughes Performance 2800-3200 RPM stall converter or a similar offering from B&M or TCI would work well for your setup.
  Compliments Gearing:
  With your 3.08 rear gears and 29-inch tires, you’ll maintain good drivability and highway manners while still enjoying solid launches and occasional burnouts.
  Engine Torque Curve:
  Your engine produces over 400 lb-ft of torque starting at 3000 RPM, so the recommended stall speed will ensure the converter locks up right when the engine is delivering peak performance.
  Additional Considerations
  Transmission Cooler:
  High-stall converters generate more heat, so installing a high-quality transmission cooler is essential to protect your TH350 and ensure longevity.
  If you need additional help, contact us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech support specialist.
  
  Reply
Scott

December 16, 2024

Im am running a 620/625 solid roller cam in a 413 with nitrous in a 91 Camaro RS with th350 turbo transmission and a 411 gear with 28-10.5-15 slicks looking to run street and strip what convertors should I use

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 16, 2024
  
  Hi Scott,
  Thanks for reaching out with the details about your build—it sounds like an awesome setup! To choose the right torque converter for your 1991 Camaro RS with a TH350 transmission, solid roller cam, nitrous, and your desired street/strip use, here are some key considerations:
  Stall Speed:
  With your 620/625 lift solid roller cam and nitrous, you’ll want a stall speed that matches your engine’s powerband and nitrous activation. For a setup like yours, a converter with a 3,500-4,200 RPM stall speed is a good starting point. This will allow your engine to get into its power range quickly while still maintaining streetability.
  Nitrous Compatibility:
  Since you’re running nitrous, look for a torque converter specifically designed to handle the added torque and stress that nitrous creates. Many performance brands offer nitrous-ready converters with reinforced internals.
  Converter Diameter:
  A 9- or 10-inch torque converter is typically ideal for street/strip applications. These sizes provide the balance between quick acceleration for racing and reasonable drivability on the street.
  Transmission and Rear Gear Ratio Match:
  Your TH350 and 4.11 gears are well-suited for high-performance applications, and the 28-inch slicks will help with traction and overall gearing. A properly matched converter will complement this combination, ensuring optimal performance.
  Brand Recommendations:
  Consider high-quality converters from brands like Hughes Performance, TCI Automotive, or JEGS Brand. They offer customizable options to tailor to your specific needs, including power output, weight of the car, and driving style.
  Suggested Torque Converters:
  Hughes Performance Street/Strip Series (3500-4200 Stall): Durable and great for nitrous applications.
  TCI Breakaway or Super Street Fighter (3500+ Stall): Specifically designed for street/strip use with excellent torque multiplication.
  JEGS Performance Nitrous-Ready Converter: Affordable and reliable for high-torque setups.
  Let us know if you need help finding the right one. We are open 7 am-Midnight EST Monday through Friday and 8:00 am-11:00 pm on Saturday and Sunday. Call us at 1-800-345-4545.
  Best of luck with your Camaro build!
  
  Reply
greg ganser

December 3, 2024

Hello,
Im having a 1968 WT 400 GTO engine built with a Stroker kit.The Block has been Bored .40
The cam is XTREME ENERGY 224/230 HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM FOR PONTIAC 265-455
Im have a Turbo 400 Transmission and all this is going into my 1969 Pontiac Firebird convertible.
Just looking for your recomendations on a Torque Converter.
Thank You
Greg.G

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 3, 2024
  
  Hi Greg,
  Thanks for sharing the details of your exciting build! With your 1968 WT 400 GTO engine stroked and running the Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 224/230 Hydraulic Roller Cam, your setup suggests a moderate performance profile with a powerband that starts in the mid-range. Let’s factor in your Turbo 400 transmission and the vehicle being a 1969 Firebird convertible, likely with a bit more weight than a coupe. For your combination, I’d recommend a torque converter with a stall speed in the 2400-2800 RPM range. The 224/230 camshaft is designed for increased performance, with a powerband typically starting around 1600-5800 RPM. A converter in the 2400-2800 range will allow the engine to reach its optimal torque before fully engaging, improving both off-the-line acceleration and mid-range performance. The TH400 is a durable 3-speed automatic that pairs well with higher-stall converters. However, keep the stall speed moderate for a good balance of performance and street manners. The increased cubic inches from the stroker kit likely mean more low-end torque, which can tolerate a slightly higher stall without sacrificing drivability. Convertibles are generally heavier than coupes, which can slightly lower the effective stall speed. A 2400-2800 RPM stall accounts for this and ensures the engine stays responsive. Higher stall converters produce more heat, so ensure you have an upgraded transmission cooler installed to protect your TH400. If your rear-end gearing is in the 3.55 to 3.73 range, this stall range will work perfectly. If you have taller (lower numeric) gears, you might consider the lower end of the stall range. If you’d like recommendations for specific converters, JEGS offers several high-quality options from trusted brands like TCI, B&M, and Hughes Performance that fit your TH400 and performance profile. Let us know if you need help finding the right one. We are open 7 am-Midnight EST Monday through Friday and 8:00 am-11:00 pm on Saturday and Sunday. Call us at 1-800-345-4545. Best of luck with your build—your Firebird is going to be a showstopper!
  
  Reply
James Blevins

November 29, 2024

I am needing a torque converter for a 420 hp / 450 lbs of torques. Engine manuf suggest 2000 – 2400.
Camshaft is a Smeding Hydraulic Roller
.495/.502 lift and 220/224 duration .
Trans is a 700r4 with 342 gears and 26” diameter tires. Wanting it to be street driveable . Going in a 79 z28.
I get all kinds of opinions on this.

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  December 2, 2024
  
  James, Thank you for providing all the details about your setup! Based on your 420 HP engine, 450 lb-ft of torque, and the other factors you mentioned, a torque converter with a stall speed in the 2000-2400 RPM range, as recommended by the engine manufacturer, should work well for your street-driven application.
  Here’s why this range fits your needs:
  Camshaft Specs: Your Hydraulic Roller camshaft (.495/.502 lift and 220/224 duration) indicates mild-to-moderate performance, making a 2000-2400 stall speed ideal for ensuring the engine operates efficiently at low speeds without excessive slippage or strain. This stall range matches the cam’s powerband and keeps drivability intact.
  Transmission and Gearing: Your 700R4 transmission and 3.42 gears are great for street driving. Combined with 26” tires, these provide a balanced final drive ratio that complements the converter’s stall speed, offering smooth acceleration and highway cruising without overheating the transmission.
  Street Drivability: Since you want the car to be streetable, a converter in this stall range will provide a noticeable improvement in low-speed performance while maintaining good drivability. Higher stall speeds might be less comfortable for street use and could generate more heat.
  Additional Considerations:
  Choose a quality torque converter from a reputable brand, as precision and durability are critical for performance and longevity.
  Ensure your transmission cooler is up to the task, as a higher stall converter generates more heat.
  It’s worth confirming the stall range with the converter manufacturer, as torque, vehicle weight, and setup can slightly shift the effective stall RPM.
  If you’d like recommendations for specific torque converter models or brands, let us know! JEGS offers a variety of converters that would work perfectly for your build.
  Please call us at 1-800-345-4545. We are open 7 am-Midnight EST Monday through Friday and 8:00 am-11:00 pm on Saturday and Sunday.
  
  Reply
Scott Brown

October 8, 2024

I have a 79 trans am olds 403 mild cam headers h pipe dual exhaust 3:23 gears and stock quadrajet and turbo 350. I was considering the tork master 2000 or holeshot 2000. Are these a good upgrade?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  October 8, 2024
  
  Hello Scott! The torque converter stall speed needs to match several things, with the camshaft being the main engine component. If you have the part number of the camshaft, we can confirm the stall speed needed to match it. Otherwise, if you have been driving the vehicle with a stock converter and the engine doesn’t stall when you put the vehicle in gear or when you slow down to a stop, most likely the stock stall speed (usually 1800 or less) is all you need. Swapping to a 2000 stall converter speed will work, but will not necessarily help with performance. The increased slippage below 2000 rpm will generate more heat in the transmission, so a cooler is recommended. Also, anytime you are under the stall speed rpm (under light throttle or at cruise speed) you will notice the slipping as the engine speed increases more quickly than the vehicle moves, which may not be desirable to some.
  If you need additional help and would like to discuss further with a JEGS tech specialist, we are open 7 am-Midnight EST Monday through Friday and 8:00 am-11:00 pm on Saturday and Sunday. Call us at 1-800-345-4545 and we can help you further.
  
  Reply
Ken Altizer

September 12, 2024

I’m rebuilding my dad’s 70 El Camino and I need to rebuild the transmission Turbo 400. Its motor is stock but I plan to add some modifications but nothing crazy. Do you know what stahl speed I should use for the new converter?

Reply
1. Pete Mitchell
  
  September 16, 2024
  
  Ken, if the motor (including the camshaft) is stock, the stall speed should be between 1800-2000. If you put a bigger camshaft in the engine, the stall speed will need to be higher, as it needs to match the camshaft. If you have any further questions, please call us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak to a tech specialist who can help you with the correct stall speed converter. We are open 7 am-Midnight EST Monday through Friday and 8:00 am-11:00 pm on Saturday and Sunday.
  
  Reply